Zamarła Turnia is one of the most recognizable walls in the Polish Tatra Mountains – not only because of its striking silhouette, but above all thanks to its legendary climbing routes. Among them, the Motyka Route (UIAA V) stands out as a true classic, attracting climbers for decades with its elegant line, solid granite, and unmistakable atmosphere.
Zamarła Turnia – Approach to the Wall
The Motyka Route is located on the south-east face of Zamarła Turnia, making it an excellent objective for both the beginning and the end of the climbing season.
From the Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich hut, follow the blue trail toward Zawrat Pass. Further, take the yellow trail in the direction of Kozia Pass. Shortly before reaching the section with chains (via ferrata), traverse left into a gully. The route begins directly below a well-defined corner system capped by a distinctive rhomboid roof – an unmistakable wall feature.
The full approach from Palenica Białczańska takes approximately 4 hours.
Climbing the Motyka Route
The route is 150 meters long and is typically climbed in 5-6 pitches.
The crux sections include:
- The initial corner (technical and sustained)
- A delicate slab after the traverse on the second pitch
- The final chimney leading to the top
All cruxes are graded around UIAA V and can feel demanding, especially for climbers not yet fully accustomed to Tatra-style granite climbing.
After exiting the chimney on the final pitch, easier terrain leads to the ridge. On the left-hand side, you’ll find a rappel station equipped with chains.
From here:
- Make a 20-meter rappel onto the north side, directly onto the Orla Perć trail
- Follow the trail to the right (orographically)
- Descend via ladders and chains to Kozia Przełęcz
- Continue back toward the base of the wall
Stanisław Motyka – History Behind the Route
Stanisław Motyka was one of the most prominent Tatra climbers of the interwar period. His name is permanently etched into the history of Polish alpinism.
Although born in Zakopane, he did not come from a traditional highlander background. Nevertheless, in 1937 he became the first non-highlander to earn a Tatra mountain guide license – an achievement that sparked considerable controversy at the time.
Motyka established around 50 new routes in the Tatras, including the Motyka Route on Zamarła Turnia (first climbed in 1935 with partners R. Glatz, V. Hudyma, and S. Zamkovský). He also authored many other classics on peaks such as:
- Ostry Szczyt (Ostrý štít)
- Mały Lodowy Szczyt (Široká veža)
- Szarpane Turnie (Ošarpance)
- Wschodnie Żelazne Wrota (Východný Železný štít)
His routes remain admired for their natural lines and excellent rock quality.
Climbing in Tatras with an IFMGA Mountain Guide
If you’re interested in climbing the Motyka Route on Zamarła Turnia – or exploring other classic climbs in the Tatras – I’d be happy to guide you.
The climbing season typically runs from late June to the end of September (sometimes longer depending on conditions). During climbing I guide one or two clients, depending on the objective.
📩 Have questions? Feel free to get in touch using the contact form on main page or via an email booking@ivbvguide.com.